How to Properly Maintain a Garden Container

Proper care and feeding are the secrets 


Growing plants in containers is one of my favorite ways to garden. Even though it came in August, I had it with Deadhead and Lucking water cans. Last spring, as I was getting ready to fill my containers, the memory of sticky Nicotiana flowers clinging to my fingertips came rushing back, and I wondered: Is all this fuss and fluff worth it? Do containers really require that much care, or is it just hype? That's when I decided to do an experiment. I planted several sets of identical containers and in each set gave one pot water and the other the royal treatment: compost, primping and pruning.


By mid-summer, it became clear that the containers needed more than just water. The water-only containers looked miserable: the plants were thin, had few flowers, and their leaves were often an unhealthy yellow. Containers given more TLC thrived with abundant growth and flowers. The moral of the story is that a regular maintenance checklist is the best way to get containers looking good from start to finish. Now I know that all the work really does pay off, and that makes the rewards that much sweeter.


1. Provide constant supply of water and nutrients



Hot summer temperatures send plants into a growing frenzy. If they don't get enough water and nutrients, they become stunted and sick. Irrigation can be a balancing act; Too much or too little and your plantings will suffer. My strategy is to water the containers well when the soil surface feels dry to the touch. During the hottest part of the summer, watering should be done at least every other day. I add water to each pot until I see it seeping from the bottom, making sure the moisture has reached the deep roots. I also avoid watering at the end of the day. Without sunlight and heat to evaporate moisture from the leaves, the leaves remain damp, making them more susceptible to foliar diseases.


Most gardeners fill their pots with soilless mixes, which lack organic matter and nutrients. I give my containers a regular amount of compost to give the plants the food they need. I add a balanced, granular, synthetic or organic, time-released fertilizer to the potting mix at planting time. This will slowly feed the plants over the next few months. Since container plants are heavy feeders, I start feeding the pots with a water-soluble fertilizer that the roots can take immediately after a month of planting. I mix liquid fertilizer at half strength—because the soil already contains granular fertilizer—and apply it when watering every two to three weeks until the end of the season.


2. Cut off spent flowers and unsightly leaves



I give my containers a good primping every week. Removing faded flowers and damaged or diseased leaves and stems not only keeps plants looking good, but also keeps them productive and healthy. Deadheading redirects a plant's energy from seed production back to flower production. When cutting off the flowers, move the flower stalks back to the leaf tip or main stem. Do not leave headless or leafless stems.


It is also important to remove problem leaves back to the main stem. If an entire stem is damaged or diseased, cut it back to the nearest healthy growing point or base. It is best to remove decayed leaves and stems as soon as you see them. Wounds attract insects and promote disease. Many container plants such as pelargoniums, also known as annual geraniums (Pelargonium spp. and cvs.) have a tendency to develop a fungal disease called botrytis on their lower leaves. Don't be shy about digging deeper into plantings to look for problems. Likewise, peek under your trailing plants and remove any brown or torn leaves.


3. Prune the plants back into shape



Two or three times a season, I prune my containers back into shape. Some plants grow more vigorously than others, so I cut invasive plants back to size to keep my plantings balanced. I have a habit of over-planting, so I found it crowded in a pot So, I'll remove a stem here or there to make sure the container gets enough air circulation to stay healthy. If you have the opposite problem and your planting isn't big enough, pruning the tips of a few stems back a bit will encourage them to bush out.

Some plants require a complete overhaul in mid-summer. If a plant looks less productive and less attractive overall, I cut all stems in half at the leaf tip or growing point. The plant is usually back up and running in two weeks. If the thought of cutting the entire plant back scares you, do it gradually over three weeks by cutting a third of the stem each week. Avoid pruning your plants during the heat of the day, which can stress the plant. Prune them in the morning or evening when the stems are firm but bent.


Then use saucers to save water


I often place trays under containers located in warm, sunny locations to help retain soil moisture longer. Trays also help when the soil is too dry, allowing water to drain off the surface. By letting the water sit in the saucer, the overly dry soil has a chance to soak up and absorb the moisture. I avoid placing trays under pots located in shady areas because they keep the pots too wet and the plants die. For the same reason, I remove the plates especially during monsoons.


Choose the right pot


The type of container you use also affects how often you need to water. Terra-cotta pots are porous and dry out quickly, while glazed, plastic or metal pots hold more moisture.


Mix in some magic crystals


Moisture-retaining soil additives can reduce the need for water. In years of heavy rain or when the pots are in shade, the soil is too wet.

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