7 of the Worst Weeding Mistakes That Make Gardening Much Harder

For most gardeners, weed removal is not an optional job. It can certainly feel like an endless (and a failed) battle during the growing season. However, a garden without weeds, especially after a large weeding session, will look clean and tidy. In addition, regular weed removal is beyond aesthetics because these garden invaders compete with your plants for water, nutrients, and light. If left unattended, invasive weeds can cross a bed and crush your favorite flowers or vegetables. Some weeds can provide a site for diseases and pests to spread to your cultivated plants. Simplify things by avoiding these common weeding mistakes.

1. Ignorance of the enemy.

Finding weeds in your garden will help you find the best strategy to control them. “One key aspect I encounter with gardeners trying to win the war on weeds is that they know nothing about weeds or anything,” says Allison Arnold, North Carolina Extension Agent. "If weeds can be identified, it will provide information on how to manage it." In the beginning, it helps to know whether you are dealing with annuals, perennials, or twenty-year-old weeds. They can be controlled by pruning them in the ground before sowing annually, while perennials and some that have been treated this way for twenty years will grow back from the roots. It also helps to know how specific weeds are propagated (seeds, racehorses, suckers, etc.), when they bloom and when seeds germinate.

2. Forgetting those seeds.

Many weeds spread by producing tons of seeds, and those seeds can often live for many years in the soil, waiting for a little light and moisture to grow. Keep this in mind when you weed, so as not to disturb the soil as little as possible. The use of a mulch layer also helps to prevent weed seeds from seeing in daylight.

Removing weeds before setting the seeds will go a long way in reducing future weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides that kill germinating seeds in the soil can be an effective control, but they prevent desirable seed germination, so do not use them in areas where you plan to sow more in the lawn...

3. Misuse of herbicides.

Many types of herbicides are beyond pre-existing; All must be used with caution and by the instructions on the label. Do not spray on windy days and wear protective clothing (mask, eye protection, gloves, long sleeves, long pants, socks, and closed-toed shoes) when using it. Make sure you use the right herbicide for your specific needs. Some herbicides are selective, meaning they kill only grasses, and others only broad-leaved plants. Unselected herbicides are sprayed on any plant and they are destroyed. Label your sprayer so you do not use it for anything else. Even a small herbicide residue can severely damage your garden plants.

4. Use of incorrect weeder.

You may be tempted to use a weed killer at all, but this is not the best solution for all types of weed or garden conditions. "For annual weeds like squid, purslane, and lamb, cut the weeds in the soil line with a sharp spade. Do not dig too deep into the soil or you'll bring in more weed seeds. Work for yourself," said Charlie Nardozzi, host of the All Things Gardening radio show. A long handle hoe works well in the vegetable garden, while a hand hoe is ideal for weeding in tight, crowded places or on raised beds.

"For perennial weeds like burdock and dandelions, wait until the soil is moist; use a cultivator to dig deep into these roots and try not to leave any roots. This will prevent the weeds from re-emerging," says Nardozzi. Good hand tools for digging perennial roots include a short knife and a dandelion weeder.

5. Forgetting gloves.

To add insult to injury, some weeds, such as thistle and wild blackbird, have thorns. Some weeds, such as nettle and poison ivy, can cause skin irritation. Always wear protective gloves when weeding, especially to avoid painful holes and cracks when working with unfamiliar plants.

6. Relying on landscape fabric.

Mulched terrain is said to be a long-term solution to control weeds. This can be useful to control weeds on paths, playgrounds, or other areas where you do not grow plants. But if used as an annual flower or vegetable garden, you will need to change it every year, and it will often be needed for fast-growing annual plants by adding fertilizer or other soil improvements.

For perennial plantings such as shrub borders or perennial gardens, natural fabric makes it difficult to weed for long periods. Soil and organic debris accumulate in the mulch on top of the cloth and are thrown in the right place for the weed seeds to germinate and grow. As time goes on, the fabric starts to break, so the weed roots can pe

It will be very difficult to penetrate into the soil due to the obstruction. Removing the surface cloth after it has lost its effectiveness is a much harder job than constantly weeding the area.

7. Procrastinating.

Longer weeds grow, and they spread, and smaller weeds are easier to remove than larger ones. Pull them out as soon as you see them growing, you will save a lot of time and effort. Kathy Birdie at ColdClimateGardening.com says this is especially true for woody weeds. "Putting off pulling tree seedlings from trees and shrubs is a big mistake. Before you know it, you have to dig deep to get the root out. If you don't get it, some woody plants will send suckers. The problem is persistent," he explains.